How To Repair Screw Holes In Rv Fiberglass Roof
I have about 10 unused screw holes in my roof, and another dozen holding down some old just useful tech. I desire to plug the unused ones and seal the useful ones.
On another thread, DrewE said, 'epoxy mixed with a filler of some sort,' for the unused ones. So I was trying to figure out what filler. Hoo male child.
For the useful ones, should I remove the screws, scrape out the old caulk, and replace the screws, bedding in dicor? 551?
three/4 timing in a DIY van conversion. Backroads, mountains, boondocking, sometimes big cities for a alter of pace.
amateur epoxying looks like, well amateur epoxying.
bumpy
Bumpyroad wrote:
do we accept to check back in prior posts to relearn what the elevation is fabricated of?
amateur epoxying looks like, well apprentice epoxying.
bumpy
Fiberglass
Chris & Dianne
Jayco Designer 3110 SOLD 6-11-2016, looking for the next 1.
F250 PSD 4x4 Crew Cab
I'd say for just a few screw holes use JB weld. Epoxy must be painted over, information technology is non UV resistant.
Sometimes paint does non like to stick to epoxy, sand it and wipe it to remove any blush or shiny spots.
I use a lot of ii part epoxy, of the blazon for laminating surfboards. To thicken this epoxy I utilise wood flour, which is basically sanding dust I collect in my chugalug sander from a 120 grit chugalug.
Information technology turns the epoxy into diverse shades of brown depending on the wood the dust was colected from. One needs a lot more than dust thean they would expect to utilize until the epoxy is about a peanut butter consistency. In that location are dozens of thixotropic agents ane tin add to epoxy to thicken it up, but wood flour/dust is free and more than constructive enough for this task.
I other possibility is mixing the epoxy, and then waiting on information technology to get-go thickening, and so one time gooey and thicker, mush it into the holes with a straight border, but this can become messy with stringy epoxy leaving hairs from cup and directly edge. One also needs to saturate the fibers with unthickened epoxy first.
If there is paint in the spiral holes, I'd want that paint out of at that place first
An easier solution may be to buy i of the dual-syringe epoxy kits, tape the holes from underneath, and make full from in a higher place.
For sealing fasteners, a butyl based sealant is a good choice.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton
![[emoticon]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_tXVMJjRu-0NUazOVJ4P53IGcKSIodnSf_e6tbEevAe5v_lw05JNACpvgejEAWtz48waHp-GicaVz862sin4EewSan2E120LQu3Zwz8ZomsWDbo0y1Rpg0=s0-d "smile")
I never would have idea well-nigh JB weld. https://www.amazon.com/Sunday-Cure-4-4-Fibe........&qid=1502126195&sr=viii-2&keywords=sun+cure
I beloved me some state yachting
If only spiral holes, utilise only the resin.
Bud
USAF Retired
Step Arrow
2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker
Polyester resins in surfboards are mainly kept as information technology is cheaper and more production friendly every bit the charge per unit of cure can be better controlled in a wider range of ambient temperatures by how much catalyst is added. Epoxy ordinarily have one hardener and the ratio cannot exist changed to affect cure times.
Likewise a lot of the contnuance of polyester resin use in surfboard building is resistance to alter and that many surfboard laminators cannot be bothered to figure out how to laminate with epoxy when they are so attuned to breathing styrene. There is more to laminating with epoxy than spreading it with a squeegee. More finesse is required
Fourth dimension is money, Epoxy is superior in all but heat and UV resistance and price.
What I would not do is try and use polyester on an Epoxy surfboard as adhesion could be an issue, and Polyester sometimes will NOT cure atop an Epoxy.
Filling a couple screwholes in a fiberglass top, in comparison to repairing a major ding in due south surfboard rails, is cakework, but the dominicus cure / Solarrez surfboard repair kits would be a pretty good solution. Better thn JB weld? well If I had to purchase a product just for this application, I'd buy JB weld.
Just get the pigment out of the screwholes, and this might require drilling the holes bigger.
Naio wrote:
Thanks Chris, that does sound more waterproof than filling. Lot of work, tho! There is gelcoat under the pigment. Do I need to sand that off, too?
You lot will demand to sand it just enough for the new cloth to seize with teeth into, not all the manner off, merely rough it upward to give it some teeth.
In that location may be an easier or cheaper solution, nevertheless fiberglass is the proper repair.
-- Chris Bryant
landyacht318 wrote:
...as I am a surf bum who will die shortly afterwards I can no longer ride waves.
I completely understand your obsessiveness and I am pretty much the same, built-in and raised on the ocean surfing. Information technology'south but when I was living on the north Oregon coast and I developed extreme pain in my left ear, from a previous surfboard fin impacting that area an perforating my ear pulsate when I was 15 which never healed. The pain got so groovy I had to give upwards existence in the water regardless of what I tried. And as you probably empathise, it is a lot easier to not surf when yous live over a thousand miles from the ocean.
Surprisingly, living inland hasn't destroyed my character yet, merely need to discover other things to occupy my time where i would normally be surfing. Surfing is not only a sport, it is a life way and builds characters.
Just yeah, I've repaired many a surfboard and establish the simplicity of using Lord's day Cure repair kits or like is very convinient. No mixing of hardener or waiting for it to get that proper consistency so it doesn't run off. I'm non surprised and genuinely pleased with how well information technology works on a fiberglass RV. Keeping a repair kit in the RV is perfect.
If you can become to the surface on the other side, and can put a piece of record in that location to block the patch material, I would simply fill the holes with epoxy, if your dealing with a vertical surface then I would permit it start to solidify slightly (but till it starts getting thick) and fill to about 1/8" above level, let dry for a day, and then sand lightly to smoothe the surface and and so paint to cover.
OR,,,
If these are just some small 1/iv" holes for mounting bolts, again if it is but the single thickness of fiberglass, yous could place another commodities through the pigsty and a nut within to secure information technology. Put a rubber washer both outside and within to create a seal. And you should be washed.
* This mail was edited 08/07/17 02:06pm by kerrlakeRoo *
midnightsadie wrote:
they practise make a marine cluak in a tube .
one of the iii Thousand ones would make a permanent set up.
bumpy
has a water proof expoxy putty, i have used on a variety of things
including a leaky A/C on my first class A, that leaked water in the pelting
it is so water proof, it cures in the rain or nether h2o
information technology would be my goto for those screw holes
make clean both inside outside and in the hole
scroll upwards a piddling like playing with 'clay'
push it in the hole , and squish it on both sides in and out
mushroom style like a rivet
once its dry out (24 hrs ?) pigment information technology or seal information technology with anything you lot like
JB water weld
i try to continue a tube on manus, keen for leaky water lines
just plow off the water pressure for a few hours, to let it set up
I can explicate it to you lot.
Simply I Can Not understand it for you lot !
....
Connected using Verizon and AT&T
1997 F53 Bounder 36s
Naio wrote:
OK, I simply spent 2 hours googling because I didn't want to annoy youse guys by asking too many questions. At that place is way also much info out there and I don't know who to believe. I trust you guys.
I have about ten unused screw holes in my roof, and another dozen holding downward some erstwhile but useful tech. I desire to plug the unused ones and seal the useful ones.
On another thread, DrewE said, 'epoxy mixed with a filler of some sort,' for the unused ones. So I was trying to effigy out what filler. Hoo male child.
For the useful ones, should I remove the screws, scrape out the old caulk, and supplant the screws, bedding in dicor? 551?
Go some Dicor caulk and squeeze a chip into the pigsty and allow a chip ooze out onto the roof. Now, screw in a spiral of the appropriate size or fifty-fifty a tad bigger. Caulk over the height of this and you have a nicely sealed pigsty that will concluding for many years. Check the caulk every couple of years and add a chip more if necessary.
What I mail is my 2 cents and zilch more. Please don't read annihilation into my post that's not in that location. If you disagree, that'southward OK.
Can't we all only get forth?
MrWizard wrote:
JB Weld
has a water proof expoxy putty, i have used on a variety of things
including a leaky A/C on my first class A, that leaked water in the rain
it is so water proof, it cures in the rain or nether water
it would be my goto for those spiral holes
clean both within outside and in the pigsty
roll up a little like playing with 'dirt'
push it in the hole , and squish it on both sides in and out
mushroom style like a rivet
once its dry (24 hrs ?) paint information technology or seal information technology with annihilation you like
JB water weld
i effort to go along a tube on manus, keen for leaky water lines
just plough off the water pressure for a few hours, to permit it set upward
I was about to suggest this stuff. It's amazing. And given that it's on the roof, I wouldn't be overly concerned nearly appearance.
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board
Just brand sure you lot don't desire to use those holes once more.
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I think Naio'southward best pick it the waterproof JB weld. Exercise your all-time to mix information technology properly, ratio wise, and completely and perchance get a Q tip and some DNalcohol inside the threads.
Class I guess a tube of dicorbis 5x the amount for 2x the price ![[emoticon]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/blogger_img_proxy/AEn0k_vFMKMVpcjczGxdz7ouM_Kpt24hw9mdoxP3B_zACFqu9FWes4yWqg8vvXJAXVAH4ozINMwoE9Z3m3g9uzliPwV4yLLuF2B4cLHdrZZpASZILgeaH7PpEw=s0-d "wink")
Cheers very much, all of you. I was not happy to discover all these holes in my roof, but I now have hope of not getting wet
Naio wrote:
Ok, added waterproof JB weld to my amazon society. Shockingly cheap!
Class I estimate a tube of dicorbis 5x the amount for 2x the toll
Thanks very much, all of you. I was not happy to find all these holes in my roof, but I now have hope of not getting wet
Good suggestions on the JB weld ( the stuff is amazing) and the 3m sealant. Just to be a scrap more sure, use Eternabond tape over that stuff too. Water is the killer of RV's
Proud father of a US Marine
Naio wrote:
Maybe I am wrong, just I am just uncomfortable with anything involving putting screws dorsum in the holes. Information technology but seems like a bunch of spiral pathways for water to get in!
It is not. Since in that location is Dicor in the hole and a flake on top, the threads of the screw get wrapped in caulk every bit it is screwed in. I have removed screws that I had installed years earlier and they still looked like the 24-hour interval I screwed them in. There is no way for water to get past the caput of the screw with the caulk under the head and over the top and the threads themselves are also wrapped in caulk. Heck, look at all the roof vents and similar things on your roof. They are all screwed down and don't leak.
di you always become your new vent & fan installed
How To Repair Screw Holes In Rv Fiberglass Roof,
Source: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29384571/print/true.cfm
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